Photos of Kyoto

Roof details of Ninamaru Palace

It's late and I walked for nine hours today, probably covering about 20 miles, so this will brief.  The girls saw Nijo Castle and the Imperial Villa grounds with me, then chose to go to a shopping arcade and return to the hotel, so most of this I enjoyed on my own.

Despite predictions for 100% chance of rain today, it was sunny and, of course, humid, but the weather was better than yesterday.  We slept in a bit, because we were tired and were expecting bad weather, but we arrived at Nijo Castle, right next to our hotel (ANA Kyoto) at 10 a.m.  Once again, the enormous size of the famous structures in Japan is overwhelming.  The stone and stark white walls of the exterior appear to be unbreachable.

Some of the buildings in Nijo Castle

We were able to tour through Ninamaru Palace, the home in Kyoto of Ieyasu Takagawa, located only a few blocks from the Imperial Villa and grounds.  Japanese interiors from that era had no furnishings.  Cushions, tables, and futons were brought out when they were needed and then stored away.  Glowing, decorated golden panels line the walls of all the rooms, from the anterooms to the main hall where the shogun received guests.  The floors of the hallways, which encircle the rooms of the building, squeak when people walk on them.  This "nightingale" feature was incorporated to alert guards to anyone sneaking around.  Outside this palace is a lovely garden with a carefully designed pond as its main feature.  There is another palace in the castle also, although we could not tour it. 

We left the castle and walked northeast to the Imperial Villa and its grounds.  The grounds are now a public park with wide walking paths as well as trails meandering among the trees.  However, it is not a designed garden, so there are no flowers in bloom; everything is green.  Overall, it is unimpressive.  It is impossible to see the villa because it is surrounded by high walls.  There is only a glimpse of a rooftop.  We left the grounds, sweating in the humidity and seeking out shade wherever we could find it on the streets.  My plan was to continue a walking tour to see a lot of temples and shrines.  Katya was less than enthusiastic, and I think Katie was concerned about spending money on entrance fees.  (By the end of the day, I had only spent about 1000 yen--$12.50.)  I had a headache from the heat so I decided to accompany them to the popular enclosed shopping areas in central Kyoto to find something to eat.

Part of Heian Jingu Shrine

However, I was pulled as if by magnetic force into shrines and temples along the street on the way.  They waited while I stopped at a house which was built by the first Japanese to be educated in the U.S., Joseph Hardy Neesima.  His biographical details are quite interesting.  The house is a hybrid of eastern and western styles.  They grew impatient as I was sucked into the grounds of Shimogoryo Shrine and decided to go ahead.  When I came back to the street, they were not there.  Ibuprofen had helped my headache, so I decided to head east to see more temples and shrines.  I figured they could make it on their own.

Next I stopped at Gyoganji (temple), another fine example of religious architecture from the Edo era.  Then I walked on toward the Heian Shrine, but I made a stop in a craft emporium, where I was able to purchase some gifts for family.  The Heian Shrine is one of the oldest.  Omikuji hang from trees alongside the bright orange-red, green roofed buildings.  The main torii for the shrine is enormous, spanning a six-land boulevard.

Shoren-in Temple

My next stop was the Shoren-in Temple, sumptuously decorated in gold inside and out.  There are also beautiful painted panels hanging above the entrances to the main building.

Cemetery at Chion-in

Even more impressive is Chion-in temple.  With numerous structures placed along paths winding up the hillside, there are visual delights at every turn.  At the top of one flight of stone stairs I found a large cemetery.  The stone and gravel paths went past stele and monuments.  Incense was burning on some of the graves; tea had been put out as well as foliage and flowers.  They all had thin wood panels, held on by metal straps at the base, which seemed to contain prayers or blessings.  The cemetery continued up the hillside into the forest.

Hanging decoration, Chion-in

At one of the temple buildings, Buddhist monks in brown robes were celebrating a ritual, with chanting and gongs sounding.  The building highest up the mountain was unbelievably beautiful, with an abundance of gold decorations.  Chion-in is obviously an active monastery and place of worship.  Mats for kneeling were lined up in a number of the structures.

Bell for worshipers at Yasaka Shrine

My next stop was Yasaka Shrine in the lovely Maruyama Park.  Bright red and gold make this yet another boldy painted and decorated Shinto shrine.  Many Japanese people were visiting the shrine and having picnics in the park.  (Fathers Day is celebrated in Japan also.)

Dharma Hall, Kennn-ji

Kennin-ji (temple) was my next stop.  This brilliantly decorated temple complex includes black-and-white pen and ink panels displaying ferocious dragons. Above the lavishly golden alter in Dharma Hall, twin dragons are depicted on a recently added ceiling painting.

Shopping Street

Up a narrow pedestrian street lined with old buildings housing shops, I approached the monumental five-story Yasaka Pagoda soaring into the sky.  Behind this were more narrow streets filled with shops offered food and confections, exquisite fans, silks, pottery, antiques, lacquer-ware and more--all of the finest quality, much of it quite expensive.  The streets were filled with mostly Japanese people and a few Caucasian tourists.  A few of the Japanese--men, women and children--were dressed in traditional clothing.  At the end of one of these streets, the road climbed up into the forest again.  A monumental, buff-colored Buddha emerged above the tree tops, guarding over a cemetery.

Water pouring down for cleansing, Kiyomizudera

Passing back through the shopping streets, I reached Jishu Shrine, red structures highlighted against the blue sky.  On the other side of this shrine, nestled in the verdant hills, is Kiyomizudera temple, another UNESCO World Heritage Site in Kyoto.  Indeed, it is outstanding.  There is a cleansing font where the water from springs pours from above to be caught in the long-handled cups while leaning out over the balustrade.  Tucked in among the trees and hydrangea is a cemetery, the plots marked only by wooden stakes.

By now, it was after 6:00, and the temples and shrines were all closed.  The quickest way back to the hotel was the free shuttle from the train station, so I walked south along the Kamo River to get there.  I had been so preoccupied with the amazing wonders of Kyoto that I hadn't stopped to eat at all.  The McDonald's by the shuttle stop looked quick and tempting.  I purchased a sundae and then returned to the hotel.

Katya and Katie in the hotel lobby with a live flower arrangement

The girls had been back for hours.  After I soaked my feet and cleaned some of the sweat off me, we walked a few blocks to a great noodle shop they had spotted on their way back to the hotel earlier.

Tomorrow morning we are up early to go to Nara for the morning and early afternoon.  More temples and shrines!!!! -- Sherri